Leaving Mongolia

Woke up in the ger, used the outhouse across the dirt road (much nicer than all the public bathrooms), then relaxed and watched the sky. The guys woke up and we had some breakfast. Sola returned to get us. We saw a group of 60 and over Korean women tourists doing some cute little marching exercises, having a great time with big smiles on their faces. We sang all kinds of silly songs in strange voices on the ride back, to amuse ourselves and every now and then Sola too. At the hostel Sola said she was very happy and we all felt a good about the short time we spent together and a little sad to be parting. We got back with Mike who was still sick, as was Andy. We checked out, put the heavy bags in the hostel storage, then got a ride to the State Department Store with the hostel owner (he had some bank business to do near there, regarding the travelers check Andy gave him). At the State Department Store we met up with a Mongolian friend of Andy's who had just returned from Washington after a a few years of not seeing Mongolia. She was really surprised at the rapid expansion of buildings and cars in Ulanbataar.

 

Omar and I were a little messed up from not eating properly the past few days, so Mike kindly suggested that we go to the one vegetarian restaurant that we had been to a few days ago. It meant Omar and I could eat a much needed, proper meal. I ate two. After, we head back to the State Department Store to look at last minute souvenirs. I picked up a bunch of Mongolian artwork, showing examples of a some different styles I really liked. Andy's friend left to go spend time with her parents, and we met up with Hulga (a talented Mongolian musician we met at the Black Market, who told us about the Naadam Cultural Festival). We sat down in a cafe and talked for a while. He had invited us to a traditional music show the previous night, but three of us were already leaving for the gers. Mike had enjoyed the concert with him the night before. It was good to hear his perspectives on Mongolia and music. He gave us a taste of some demoes he was working on. I hope to hear the finished songs when they are ready. We sat for a couple of hours before he kindly dropped us off at the hostel. We grabbed our bags and the hostel owner offered to drop us off at the train station. I have to say, I really appreciated how nice both these people were to us. They really went out of their way to help us and make us feel welcome, as did several other people on the trip. He even helped Andy get his train ticket, and Hulga came back to give us Andy's camera which he had left in Hulga's car. We thanked them both and walked to the platform ready to board.
After a while, we boarded, and met some new people. Andy wasn't sure if he'd leave with us or later when we bought tickets, so his ticket ended up being in a different car. We had a Mongolian man named Sik with us, and made friends with a guy named Jaigal (or Jack) who accidently sat in our compartment with us for a while before realizing he was in the wrong one. He spoke some english and turned out to be a huge death metal and hard rock fan. He was 38 years old but had the crazed energy of a 16 year old. It was a lot of fun talking to him because he was so excited and kept laughing and explaining Mongolian history, culture and relations with interesting animated hand gestures and phrases. It was hilarious and made the trip so much more fun. He went to his compartment, but hung out with us a lot. Sik was quieter, but polite and smiled. Andy joined us and shared his Khumi (traditional Mongolian throat singing) skills to the delight of all, including an older woman from next door who watched from the hall with a big smile on her face. The six of us sat around talking, laughing etc. They shared some Areg with Andy and Mike and chatted for a long time. It was funny talking about all these bands with Jaigal. I had a headache again and didn't feel too great, so I climbed up and slept on the bunk above. A little later, Andy and Sik swapped compartments, so Andy could stay with us and we all went to sleep in our respective compartments.