To Tashkurgan!

The next day we jumped in a car with our driver Mr. Ling, to head out to Tashkurgan, a border town on the way to the Khunjra Pass to Pakistan. We had obtained permission to go up to it, and were very excited to see it.As we left Kashghar, we stopped at a small dusty town along the way. Mr. Ling pointed us to a bazaar, so Omar took his drum and Andy his Rabab and we walked over to it. It was a lot less built up than the one in Kashghar. It had tents instead of concrete shops and it was definately not geared to tourists. I went to a stall to buy a notebook and pen, meanwhile a bunch of people seeing the intruments asked Omar and Andy to play. Before they knew it, old women and pulle dout little chairs for them and they started playing as a very large crowd formed in front of the stationary stall. I joined them and we sang a couple of songs, as the crowd surged, pushing a little to see what it was all about. It was a pretty amazing experience, but we wanted to move on quick as we had attracted a very large crowd. People were very friendly, and appreciative. They made sure we didn't leave any stuff behind and thanked us as we took off back to the car, running into a bus of Pakistanis and on down the road.The scenery changed rapidly and we could see huge mountains in the distance. We stopped at a tourist shop along the way, where I finally found some intricate traditional Uigher clothing. It was very beautiful with intricate needlework. Apparently that type of clothing is not too common any more. It is made by families for themselves and sometimes for shops like that one. We moved on and stopped at a line of tables with stone work. Vendors ran out to call us over to their tables. I walked along, largely ignoring the over anxious sales people. Finally, before leaving we decided to play some songs. That completely changed the feel of it all. From being annoying sales people, to the sweetest crowd we have every played for in a matter of moments. Little kids, mothers and people of all ages came to see from the yurts across the street. It was such a pleasure to share some music. The crowd made room for some men to dance a bit. It was pretty unbelievable.We head on down towards Tashkurgan stopping along the way to admire the magnificent landscape.Eventually we reached Tashkurgen, checked into a hotel, only to check out very annoyed at the staff trying to double the price and that too with no running water and all kinds of construction being done in the hall. So we walked across the street and booked a room there. It actually turned out great as we met a Pakistani man who had just opened a gift shop selling Pakistani souvenirs. His name was Mustafa and along with a man from the Pakistani bus we ran into earlier named Javed, we head to a Pakistani restaurant. Andy was hooked on Pakistani food at this point. Along the way we picked up some dry fruit to help with altitude sickness as I was getting a bit of a headache. Once at the Pakistani restaurant there was a steady stream of Pakistanis coming in. We ran into more people from the bus from earlier in the day. They all said we should have just hopped on the bus with them. We ate some good food, played some music, then head to one of the hotels where a lot of Pakistanis stay and played more music in the lobby.It was late and I was a bit afraid that we would wake people up, but our hosts insisted that it wasn't a problem. They were all business men, mostly trading in fruit and they knew the Pakistanis we ran into in Kashghar as well.After a bit, a man in a green uniform stumbled out of a room across the way. His eyes were almost shut, his hair a mess, face all red, he just stood there across the lobby staring at all us. He didn't look too happy. I invited him over to join us, but he just stood there. The other Pakistanis around me explained that he was a Tajek, and sarcastically said he was the Minister of Oil, drunk out of his mind, and not to bother with him. So we continued, and so did he.Finally he got the hotel staff to cut up some melons and presented them to us. He sat down and really enjoyed the music. He kept asking us to play more.Andy handed him the Rabab and he played and sang an amazing Tajek song unlike anything we had heard before. He just stared at Andy and me as he sang with a huge grin ear to ear. Yeah, it was kinda creepy, but man could he play. He begged us to stay, but we were tired and managed to get out and back to the hotel. The Pakistanis we met in Kasghar and Tashkurgan were all from northern areas like Swat and Gilgit. Their hospitality was very genuine and it felt nice to be welcomed and to speak in Urdu with all of them.